Do Cockapoos have health problems

Cockapoos don’t have more health problems than other breeds, and this might be something you were worrying about if you were considering purchasing a crossbreed. A lot of prospective pet owners have some serious doubts about procuring crossbreeds because they’re not sure if that means more health problems.

The Cockapoo doesn’t usually incur the many health problems that are associated with purebred dogs. Luxating patella, a disease where the knee starts to get loose and wobble is one of the few conditions that afflict this cute little crossbreed. It is alright to treat this condition with surgery, but the best solution is to do a prevention screening for this condition.

The Cockapoo can also get progressive retinal atrophy, and the retina can deteriorate over a number of years. This health condition can be blindness and vision difficulties. Proper breeding is the best solution for good prevention.

There are a number of secondary health conditions that are associated with this dog too. It has floppy, soft ears, and that is an attribute that makes it a favorite companion dog. However, as with all dogs that have ears like that, the Cockapoo can get ear problems, yeast infections, and bacterial infections. Make sure to keep your Cockapoo’sears in good condition, and clean them weekly, and give them even more attention if ear problems form. There are a number of easy treatments for ear infections. You might want to ask the veterinarian to check out the dog’s ears when you’re visiting.

This dog can also suffer from thyroid conditions like hyperthyroidism, which is the underproduction of the thyroid hormone. Make sure to look out for laziness and hair loss. You can give it treatment with an oral hormone, like daily pills.

The Cockapoo will treat you well if you give it enough attention and take it to the vet regularly. It is an affable and congenial dog, and you should give it daily exercise to mitigate against any possible health conditions. Also, try to give it as good of a diet as possible, like a raw food diet or a grain-free diet, to ensure that it gets the proper nutrition to protect against possible health conditions before they ever begin to develop at all. Your Cockapoo is not immune to all diseases, and even though it’s a sturdy and reliable dog, it will get old, and veterinary visits are mandatory. It’s the best thing for the dog.

Do Cockapoos have dander

Every dog has dander, even if it has a non-shedding coat. Cockapoos are a low-shedding breed, not no-shedding. Every dog has a different dander count. Some crossbreeds have lower dander counts than others. The majority of non-shedding and low-shedding breeds tend to have dander counts that are lower than breeds that shed. Cockapoos are a mix of a non-shedding breed and a low-shedding breed. This will usually make for a non-shedding Cockapoo with a lower dander count. However, even the shedding Cockapoos have dander counts that are lower.

You can get a specific kind of Cockapoo for allergy sufferers called a F1b. The F1B is a term used in reference to puppies that are produced from a Poodle and a Cockapoo. F1b might also be used to refer to puppies that are made from a Cocker Spaniel and a Cockapoo. That kind clearly wouldn’t be the best option for an allergy sufferer.

It is possible to control dander by keeping your dog and home washed, groomed, and very healthy. You have to give your Cockapoo the best diet that money can buy. If you can get him a raw diet, that is optimal. It is also recommended to do a grain-free diet too. You can control your dander reaction by making sure you stay healthy as well, and keeping your immune system in good condition.

There is some indication that you can get less bothered by dog dander over time, and that is a good thing for people who love Cockapoos. These dogs are already low-shedding, and the fact that they don’t have a lot of dander to begin with makes them a great dog for people who are allergic to dogs in the first place. It’s sometimes a good idea to introduce children to dogs with low dander counts when they’re young. It can kind of be like a gentle inoculation to allergens that come up later in life. There are a number of life lessons that you can learn while growing up with a small companion dog.

If you can afford to get a great dog, because you’re rolling in the dough, then consider purchasing the high-end crossbreed, the Cockapoo. Even if you’re allergic, it has a very low dander count, and it will be a great friend for many years to come.

Do Cockapoos get on with cats

Cockapoos get along extremely well with other dogs, and cats too. They are highly sociable, and they can be dropped off at the dog park without fear that they are going to get into tussles with other dogs.

Cockapoos will get along great with cats, but it’s usually the cats that will have problems with the Cockapoo. It’s the case sometimes that a Cockapoo will chase your cats, and there might not be anything that you can do to distract your dog from doing this, which will be a problem. The general rumor is that cats will swat and hiss at Cockapoos that get too close or chase them around. However, the Cockapoo will not mean any harm, and he will just be doing it for fun. The cat doesn’t see it that way. It is better if the cats have high places to go to get out of the way of the little dog.

The real problem is that the Cockapoo will often want to play with the cat, and it will not appreciate this unwanted behavior, which can be very frustrating for the cat. You can try to do things like locking the dog out of the kitchen, or keeping it in a cage at night, and it’s not really sufficient for offering the cat the most peaceful life possible.

It’s best if your Cockapoo grows up with your cats, and they can get along together. You might be able to train your dog to stay away from your cat, but your cat will probably still not appreciate the presence of the dog in the house. It can be tough to raise dogs alongside cats, and you are going to have problems with it if they’re not brought up together from a young age.

The surest trick is to bring up the pets together from a young age. Even big wild cats will get along well with dogs if they’re raised together from the time that they’re puppies and kittens, respectively. However, that’s hardly the case or how it turns out. Usually, a person gets a Cockapoo and then they decide they want a cat in later years. Or, they might have had a cat for a long time, and then they decide they want a designer dog or Cockapoo. It can be hard for a person to have two animals if they’re purchased at different times.

Can Cockapoos be left alone?

Cockapoos shouldn’t be left alone for long periods of time. They are extremely sociable, and they need a lot of attention and companionship. It’s just not fair to Cockapoos to leave them alone in a house all day. Plus, if you’re thinking of leaving them alone in the house to hold their toilet for 8-9 hours, while you’re at work, it’s not really that fair to them either.

A good rule of thumb is to leave them alone for about four hours at a time, if you have to. Of course, why would you want to? Cockapoos are great companions, and while they don’t need a lot of outdoor exercise, and would make for great apartment dogs, they still shouldn’t be left alone all day at the house to do nothing. If you can get a neighbor to pop by and let them out for a walk, that would be ideal.

A lot of Cockapoos get depression and separation anxiety when they are left alone for long periods of time. They don’t like the feeling of going without the attention and friendship that they need for their owners for too long. A Cockapoo might panic and get separation anxiety if you leave it alone for more than several hours’ worth of time without any attention.

Cockapoos enjoy being loved, and you will be surprised and amazed at how much and fast they learn. When they are puppies is the worst time to leave them alone. If there’s no way to avoid leaving him alone for a few hours, then try to get someone to come in and keep him company while he’s sitting there alone, bored at home. Make sure that you leave him for short spans of time, and very often, so that he gets used to be left alone and enjoying his own company.

You need to get your dog used to being alone and enjoying his own company, or else he will get severe separation anxiety when he is left alone for long periods of time without any kind of attention or input. You don’t want to spring it on him and get him to feel bad when you leave him abruptly and for a long period of time. You want him to get used to you leaving, and you want that to happen very often. A Cockapoo will not do good alone, and you want to make sure that he has enough practice.

Selecting a Cockapoo Puppy and Breeder

Before proceeding with your search for a good Cockapoo, we advise reading Larry Shook’s short book “The Puppy Report”. You may order it through the CCA from or check your local library. This will help you to be an informed consumer.

There are breeders or puppy brokers selling any little mixed breed as a Cockapoo because they know that they are so popular and hard to find. So be sure that you get what you are paying for. The more the breeder does, the better the warrantee and health and temperaments checks may be. For example, you can get a “bargain” pup from an ad in the paper for say “$200” and spend a $1000 dollars at the vet to get it healthy. But if you pay a higher price, say $750-1250 or more, you spend $0 at the vet and only have the ordinary maintenance expenses. So in reality, your $200 “bargain” may end up costing you $1200 and you may or may not wind up with a live, healthy and temperamentally sound pup. Whereas, you pay $750 or more to a good breeder who stands behind her/his pups and have no extra charges, are sure it is really a Cockapoo and will be healthy and temperamentally sound.

Before you travel your first impression is by phone or email and you can check a breeder out with the local Humane Society. Many times, interviewing over the telephone will either establish a relationship or raise your suspicions. Ask the breeder how long they have been breeding, about the temperament and health of the parents and if the parents are AKC registered or the pups traceable to AKC Cocker and Poodle lines. The breeder should be interested in learning about the type of home you can provide, about your history with pets, your familiarity with Cockapoos, ages of children etc. If all is going well at this point, you might ask the breeder to send a blank copy of their sales contract and warrantee along with any brochure they may have.

Ideally, the next step should be a visit to the breeders with your family. Sometimes this is not geographically feasible, in which case you need to rely on your feelings, obtaining and checking references from people who own the breeder’s pups and the reputation of the breeder. The visit gives you an opportunity to see the environmental and social conditions under which the puppy is raised, and is a chance for the breeder to get to know you and your children (if any) Pups and parents should be friendly but not overbearing or hyper, shy or depressed. They should be relatively clean and free of sores, look and act healthy, responsive and vital. Be sure to physically meet the parents and not just look at them in a yard or cage and ask the breeder if they have ever bitten anyone. If you do not like the parents, you are highly unlikely to get a satisfactory pup out of them. Sadly, some Cockers have been so inbred that they have a reputation for nasty and aggressive dispositions. Poodles have a reputation for neurotic and hyper behavior.

You can expect most breeders to have wormed pups and provided at least one shot before sale, release pups to new homes at 6 or more weeks of age or older and not ship in air cargo before 10 weeks of age. Please take the time to report visits to places with filthy conditions, unhealthy pups/stock or other signs of poor care to the Humane Society and to us. Any recommendations that the Club makes about breeders are based on positive client reports and in some cases, site visits by Club staff.

Females can sometimes be more easily disturbed by traumas in the family and it is best to choose a pup based on anticipated size and temperament, not on color or gender. It is inadvisable to get 2 pups from the same litter at once as they may bond to each other instead of to you. Get your second pup 3 or more months later and it is best to cross gender. The literature recommends first choice for a second pup to cross gender, second choice 2 males and does not recommend getting 2 females. The first two will get along and settle things, like who is top dog, the females may or may not get along and if they don’t may fight to the point of injury or worse. Opinions as to which gender makes the best pet reveal that most breeders and owners who have males say that they find them even more devoted and loyal than the female. With a male, you do not need to have the expense of surgery. Because we are a developing breed, we encourage all responsible owners with healthy and well-tempered males to keep them whole for possible stud service (an opportunity for you to either obtain the progeny of your beloved pet or collect stud fees or both). Some males may have a more pronounced “adolescence” because of high testosterone levels that soon level off. The male has had poor press about inappropriate mounting behavior but this is easily solved with good training and/or getting him a “humping pillow” that he can use in privacy. A small percentage of males being used for stud will display “marking behavior” around the house, especially when left alone. The few drops that they do emit are easily cleaned with a urine cleaner solution such as “Nature’s Miracle”, but the best solution is to crate the male when you leave. If he has a defect, by all means have him neutered.

It is highly desirable for the breeder to have regular ophthalmologic examinations of their breeding stock to certify that the dogs are free of a host of inherited eye diseases prominent in both the Cocker and the Poodle. This gives you a better chance of getting a pup that will not develop painful and expensive eye disease later on. Other tests such as those for potential hip and elbow problems as well as luxating patellas (a problem with the knees) are encouraged.

The breeder should be willing to give you a written guarantee and sales contract as well as written instructions to guide you in caring for your new puppy. An ideal contract will give you at least 4 to 7 days to get the pup to your vet to be checked over, and will cover the replacement cost of pup and vet bills if the pup develops an illness that can be shown to trace back to the breeder. This contract should also guarantee the pup to be free of genetic defects for the first year, minimum. Most breeders will offer a replacement puppy but remember – if a defect is detected after you have had the pup for a time, say 6 months, it is unlikely you will want to return it. It will already be a member of your family and you will be deeply bonded to each other. For most people it would be like trading in one of their children. So, read the contract carefully (obtain the contract and pup instructions ahead of time so you will be able to examine and suggest changes that you want). Also inquire about keeping in touch with the breeder after you have the pup at home. All good breeders will want to know about the pups they have bred, and be willing to help you along with minor questions.

Cockapoo Breed Standards

The CCA encourages all breeders to hold health and temperament FOREMOST. Calm and mellow disposition; sweet and patient nature; intelligence; loyalty; friendliness; sturdiness, stamina and good health.

Additional physical standards:

General: A dog that does not resemble either of the originating breeds. Unclipped/scissored in full coat has the general “Benji” appearance.
Tail: Undocked preferred, carried straight or curled.

Eyes: Large, round well-set brown eyes with a keen, soulful, endearing and intelligent look. Hair should be scissored back so as not to obstruct the eyes or vision. All breeding dogs should be certified annually by the Canine Eye Research Foundation as being free of genetic eye disease.

Ears: Medium to long

Dew Claws: Removed for safety

Conformation: A sturdy square build with a healthy back structure; compact, well balanced, neither spindly nor coarse.
Bites: Aligned bite with neither over or under bite. Level bites (incisors striking edge to edge) are acceptable but scissors bite (lower incisors striking just behind the uppers) is preferred. Overshot and undershot jaws are excluded from breeder registration.

Colors: All colors and combinations are acceptable.

Coat: Odorless and non-shedding. Long and full all over including legs and muzzle. Can range from loose curly but not kinky, to wavy to straight. Hair around the eyes should be trimmed so as not to impair the vision or ability to see the dog’s eyes. Long natural well-groomed coats are the most preferred but dogs that are scissored to about 2 or 3 inches are also acceptable. Individual pets not being shown can be groomed to the owner’s preference.

Size Ranges: Teacup Toy – under 6 pounds grown weight Toy – under 12 pounds Miniature/Mini – 13 to 18 pounds Maxi – over 19 pounds.

Disqualifications: Aggressiveness, shyness, genetic diseases, poor health, uncertain lineage.

SHOW STANDARDS: (planned for the future) will most likely judge 75% on disposition and health, 25% on physical. Additional points will be given to dogs that have proof of clearances for CERF and OFA certificates for hip dysplasia, patellar luxation and elbows.

Preventing Dog Separation Anxiety

To get your pup used to staying alone, leave him in his crate and go off for varying periods of time, (whether you need to or not), starting with short periods and extending the time. Do not make a big fuss over him when leaving or returning (this is also the way to treat submissive urination). Turning on the radio to classical or soft music or a talk show is comforting.

Owners, especially of small cute fuzzy, appealing dogs like Cockapoos tend to forget they are dogs and use the dog to satisfy their need to nurture something to an excessive degree. The owner may have his/her own need satisfied but the dog sometimes becomes a spoiled, overfed, finicky, overly anxious dog with few boundaries. He will not be welcome anywhere because he constantly bothers everyone for attention, marks in their house, mounts peoples legs etc.

The owner(s) create a situation where they feel they cannot go anywhere without their precious pooch, and limit their lives since dogs cannot go everywhere. You all know people like this and it is your choice about whether you want to be one of them or show real love for your dog by training him and teaching him manners.

The “Come” Command

This is the most important command your dog will ever learn and obeying it may save his life. Start out calling your pup “Rover, come” in a small space over a short distance. Praise for coming, sometimes giving a treat and praise, sometimes just praise. Remember Psychology 101, in which Skinner’s rats responded and learned better by a schedule of variable and random reinforcement?

We believe it applies to dogs too. NEVER, NEVER call the pup to you to scold him, put him in his crate, groom him or any other mildly unpleasant activity. Always make sure the “coming” results in a pleasant activity. When you need to do something to the pup, go and get him. Do these simple things consistently and you will have a dog that will turn around and come to you in the middle of chasing a rabbit!

Puppy Safety

Puppies seem to have a natural affinity for electric wires and telephone cords. You can rub Bitter Apple on the wires and cords if he is around them. It tastes terrible and can also be sprayed on other items that have become a problem. It is also useful on stool if the pup tends to eat the stool. (Very natural for dogs, but disgusting to us). Very soon after getting your puppy, fit him with a buckle type collar and a lightweight 6-ft leash. Collars are only a hazard if they are put on too loosely and the pup can get his jaw caught in it. They should be tight enough so that you can slip only two fingers under it.

Again, praise when he walks even a step with the leash on and he will soon get the hang of it. Once he does, occasionally take the pup out to eliminate with his leash on. Do not push, drag or pull the pup. NEVER, NEVER let your dog loose on city streets, no matter how obedient you think he is. It takes but an instant for even a well trained dog to dash across a street after an irresistible cat and be hit by a passing car.
Several human foods are lethal when ingested by a dog. It would take 2 ounces of Baker’s CHOCOLATE to kill a 20 LB dog. The smaller the dog the less it would take. The same with caffeine as in regular coffee or espresso. ONIONS and their relatives, garlic and chives can also be deadly. MOLDY WALNUTS and ALCOHOL can also be lethal. Seeing your dog drunk and staggering from drinking your beer is not funny or humorous, but most likely will be lethal. Common household plants such as mistletoe, holly, hibiscus, dieffenbachia, ivy, azalea, yew and the runoff from oleander are toxic. Cleaning products, disinfectants, pesticides and rodent killers are toxic if ingested and airborne sprays such as Listerine while wet. Perfumes and colognes, antifreeze, adhesives and glue are toxic and dangerous. Toys with small parts can be a choking hazard and are dangerous as well. Be sure that all members of the family know this.

What Toys and Treats to Give Your Puppy

Puppies love soft squeak toys, rawhide bones, sterilized hollow bones in which you can put an elusive piece of meat or peanut butter, cows hooves, tug of war toys, balls and pigs ears. We do not recommend pigs ears as they are costly, too easily and rapidly eaten, adding unneeded protein to the diet. There are differences of opinion about playing tug of war. Some authorities feel that it makes the dog aggressive. The general guidance is to stand up so that you are in the dominant position and so that you can control the game. Occasionally the dog may loose a baby tooth that was ready to come out anyway. Fairly gentle play and letting the dog win is OK. NEVER PULL THE PUP OFF THE FLOOR BY ITS TEETH. As a training reward, small bites of beef jerky or liver treats are good.

Remember that the dog feels just as rewarded by a small piece as he does from the entire stick. Always make the pup do something to earn the treat. Treats of any kind, along with table food, should not comprise more than 10% of the pup’s total dietary intake. i.e., The smaller the dog, the smaller the amount of treats.